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MBFWA 2015: Unpacking Strateas Carlucci's Ode to the Dark Side

"A clever play on binary opposites."
By Rosie Dalton, 14 Apr 2015
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MBFWA 2015: Unpacking Strateas Carlucci's Ode to the Dark Side
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Strateas Carlucci's fall-winter 2015 collection, called Transplant, was a tightly curated edit of wintry classics. The show was presented by luxury department store Harrolds, who recently became the label's latest Australian stockist. The androgynous collection was modelled on a wrap-around catwalk by both male and female models, some of who were even styled in matching looks. A clever play on binary opposites, the collection was set to a concrete wall backdrop, which added a sense of urban cool that has now become so intrinsic to the Strateas Carlucci aesthetic.

Designers Peter Strateas and Mario-Luca Carlucci clearly have a mind for the future, as they already seem adept at the art of balancing creativity with commerce. Today they gave us an offering that could cater equally well for both a Northern and Southern Hemisphere market. Not just that, but they are also making a name for themselves in both the fields of menswear and womenswear, which is no easy feat either. Certainly their experiences as part of the International Woolmark Prize have contributed to this savvy business approach and it is so refreshing to see Australian designers get this commercial aspect right, all in the context of innovative design.

This season's collection featured a mostly neutral colour palette of blues, blacks, whites and greys, while we also saw mossy greens make an appearance in the mix. All of this was punctuated by a couple of standout 'his and hers' suits that were fashioned from ornate gold brocade. Proportion control was an underlying theme that ran throughout, as voluminous shoulders offset streamlined trousers and vice versa. Sleeves extended way beyond fingertips — a trend that we also saw crop up at Ellery last night — while turtlenecks and chunky wrist cuffs were all complemented by belted coats and full leather jackets.

As our Australian representatives in both the men's and women's categories of this year's International Woolmark Prize, there was naturally a healthy helping of wool pieces throughout as well. In particular, nubbly merino cover-alls made the cooler weather seem especially inviting. Elsewhere, a textured wool pantsuit leant a relaxed seventies vibe, while some of the three-piece suiting was a little more strict in nature. In general, the suiting was classically tailored, but always with a twist. The fabrications were rich and embellished, while sleeves were double cuffed for effect.

Overall, the collection was modern and urban, catering to a fairly broad customer base. Denim brought things into the everyday, while some of the more luxe fabrics offered a dressier departure. As expected, it was a true cool kid presentation, with some of the freshest faces in modelling gracing the catwalk on behalf of the brand. With a touch of clever deconstruction inherent in the model's hair-obscured faces, you could be forgiven for missing the likes of Madison Stubbington and Astrid Holler striding that runway. Both fresh off success at the international shows, the message was clear that Strateas Carlucci is going places and fast.

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Liked this? Read these articles about MBFWA 2015:

1) MBFWA 2015: Backstage at Strateas Carlucci

2) MBFWA 2015: Unpackiing TOME's Homage to Sylvia Plath

3) MBFWA 2015: Backstage at TOME

4) MBFWA 2015: Check out all the Looks From Ellery's Show

5) MBFWA 2015: Unpacking Ellery's Egon Schiele-Inspired Collection

6) MBFWA 2015: Ollie Henderson's Model Diary, Day Two

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