Women dressing in mens clothing and vice versa is nothing new. Neither is fashion designers playing with, and de-contextualising gender and sexuality – for example, that's arguably what Vivienne Westwood's modus operandi, at both her shop SEX and in her collections, has always been.
However, the announcement that Selfridges will open a gender neutral department triggered the realisation that gender fluidity in fashion has never been more widespread than it was at the winter 2015 mens' shows. From Saint Laurent's feminine disco pigs, to the nonchalant objectification of mens' packages at Rick Owens, androgyny, or more more specifically gender role reversing, was everywhere.
Feminine disco pigs at Saint Laurent
Sure, Hedi Slimane interspersed his male models with women wearing sixties shift dresses (as per) but the girl-y, Party Monster-esque mens' looks were the truly profound moments.
Gender Equality scarves at Acne Studios
In the most on-the-nose nod to gender fluidity, Jonny Johansson accessorised his male models with scarves emblazoned with "GENDER EQUALITY". I want one.
Penis peep holes at Rick Owens
The fashion world had a cumulative meltdown at the little penis peep holes at Rick Owens' show, but he didn't think it was a big deal at all: "I pass classical marble statues of nude and draped figures in the park every day, and they are a vision of sensuality – yes, but also of grace and freedom," he told WWD. "As a participant in one of our most progressive aesthetic arenas, am I not allowed to use this imagery? Is it only appropriate for a Michael Fassbender movie? I thought this might be an interesting question."
This totally nonchalant expression of male sexuality effectively communicated "who cares what's down there" to the world, which, for multiple reasons, was the most profound display of gender neutrality this season.
Hanne Gaby at Raf Simons
Putting a woman in a big ol' leather trench coat and combat boots, and sending her down the runway alongside a bunch of men is one sure fire way to really go and fuck up pre-conceived gender roles and behaviour.
Pussy bow blouses at Gucci
There was just something so delightfully, effortlessly feminine happening at Gucci's winter 2015 presentation – like, if Oscar Wilde were alive today, this is exactly what he would wear, and then everyone would want to wear it too, that's how cool it is.
Published on January 29th, 2015 by Courtney Sanders
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