This season, Nom*D is proudly re-declaring who they are and where they come from, by re-visiting the thematic touchstones and design considerations that have underpinned the label for the past 29 years.
Called Noise, the collection interweaves the fact that fashion can be socially profound (the t-shirts in the range bear the word Equality, a cheeky reference to both politics and music), and the fact that NOM*d is entrenched in the gothic landscape from whence they hail – Dunedin, in New Zealand's south island.
I touched on this when they presented this collection at New Zealand Fashion Week last year, complete with seven balaclava-clad drummers no less – it was intense – but Dunedin's cultural output – like any place that's cold and dark and boring, really (I'm allowed to say that, I grew up there!) – is connected to its gothic weather, architecture and mood. It also makes sense that NOM*d are deeply connected to music when New Zealand's most profound music scene – the Dunedin Sound via Flying Nun – came out of the place around the same time they were starting out. Geography -> politics -> music -> fashion: they all fit together in this effortless way in this collection, as with most NOM*d collections, which makes the label as significant as it is.
The campaign, released today, was photographed by renowned Auckland-based photographed Karen Inderbitzen-Waller. She recently held her Lady In Red exhibition (in collaboration with Delphine Avril Planqueel and Veronica Crockford-Pound from Stephen Marr), and considering the ladies of Karen's world are sexy, knowing and dark, I can't think of anyone more appropriate to capture NOM*d's subversive aesthetic.
The campaign for Noise simultaneously evokes 19th Century English heroines – think a stoic Jane Eyre running across the moors – and something darker, more witch-like. Perfectly evocative of NOM*d's women, and NOM*d's winter 2015 collection, then. Check out the full campaign below.
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