Earlier this week Lisa Gorman celebrated her 16th years at the helm of one of Australia's most beloved labels, with the winter 2015 Moth and Moon runway show at Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens Conservatory.
A stylish crowd – wearing a lot of Gorman – toasted Melbourne's queen of whimsical wearable fashion in a setting that perfectly played to her colourful nature. Seated on Gorman cushions printed with ferns on one side and embroidered with a commemorative message on the other, we nestled among overflowing foliage as models walked a winding gravel runway inside the Conservatory and out to the courtyard.
Given that the lookbook was shot in Japan by a friend the designer had met at a New York nightclub (Jörgen Axelvall), it's fitting that the collection had plenty of glitz and glam.
Moth and Moon dazzled with bold patterns, sharp pleats and sparkly fabrics that gave off a retro roller disco vibe (in the best possible way). While a Japanese influence seeped through via kimonos and crisp origami-like folds, the overarching mood seemed plucked from the sunny '70s. Even the models' skin had the golden sheen of retro screen stars, at times matching the clothes they wore (like the sparkly ribbed ¾ sleeve sweaters).
Moth and Moon balances the brand's signature playful prints more artfully than previous collections. The label is now sweet sixteen, and like most teenagers its style is maturing. Gorman has always pushed the limits with patterns, but it's making kaleidoscopic colours increasingly accessible. A shiny gold jumpsuit with a spray of pleats on one shoulder, a midi dress with myriad prints and a matching moth-patterned sweater-and-socks set all looked easy to wear.
In retrospect I'm not sure the title does the collection justice. With crisp gold, tangerine orange and azure blue, Moth and Moon has a more intoxicating palette than its name suggests. This is intensified by textures – a thick pastel pink leather biker jacket; a soft navy shift with sharp gold pleats peeking out at the hem. There's also a glittery dress called Sparkle Motion, and I can't help but think that name captures the collection more aptly. Because although not all of the clothes sparkled or surprised, they all danced down the runway.
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